The Fourth Station: Vindobala; Now Rutchester
Civilian Woman of the Roman Period. Photo taken at Arbeia Museum.
Severus’s Wall seems to pass through this Station. What remains is a close, joining the road, of five acres, now in grass, and eminently situated; carries the strong marks of former buildings, and still stronger of its ramparts. The platform of this grand Station is complete.
I have all along inquired for turrets; but might as well have inquired among the stars. I was given to understand, that part of one was remaining here. The master told me, “I might find it at the back of his buildings.” Upon examining something like a cow-house, I perceived a small part was Roman work, which might have been part of the butment of the castle, but could not be a turret, for they always stood in front.
I saw old Sir at dinner sit, Who ne’er said, “Stranger, take a bit,” Yet might, although a Poet said it, Have sav’d his beef, and rais’d his credit.
This old City and suburbs were extensive, and lie in the junction of four roads. Down in the valley, at the ninth milestone, I come to a cottage worth twenty shillings a year.- “Pray what is the name of your place?” “High Seats.” “What, because of its low situation? You have found a place in history, only from a dignified name.”
Here the General, and the Emperor, wear so strong a feature, that all their works may be traced sixty yards on my left.
I am now arrived at Harlow Hill, ten miles and a half from Newcastle, remarkably high. 1 again bear to the right, and tread, through the town-street, on Severus’s ditch, the Wall passing through the houses on my left.
On the highest part stood a mile castle, now a garden, surrounded by its own rampart, very plain. I was shewn a large ash tree, which grew upon the very Wall, recently blown up by the root, and now rears up like a round pancake, eight feet high, and has drawn after it a ton of stones from the Wall, still clinging and interwoven with the root. A brother tree stands near it, waiting for another blast.
The road is charming. The traveller views it two miles each way. It appears like a white ribbon upon a green ground.
Soliciting a bed, I was ushered into a parlour, where sat three gentlemen. I did not conceive I had a right to intrude, so took my place at the greatest distance. A suspicious silence immediately surrounded their little table. As I never made a secret of myself, or the plan I was pursuing, I endeavoured to introduce a communication, for truth makes a wonderful impression upon the mind; when, after an hour or two’s chat, one of them remarked, “You are the most agreeable companion I have met with; but, I do assure you, when you first entered, I took you for a spy employed by Government.”
They cordially gave me an invitation to their houses; but time would not allow.
It does not appear that dishonesty is totally expunged from the Wall; for though my gloves were deposited where they ought to have been safe, yet I found that some person had made free with them.
The inhabitants remarked, that their elevated station exposed them to violent storms of wind and rain; and that if any snow was left upon the earth, it might be found there.
At the eleventh mile-stone is the village of Wall-houses: there are five. Severus, distinct as before; and Hadrian, thirty yards on the left, but faint. Here must have been a Mile castle. Now a young grove fills Severus’s ditch, whith will tend to preserve it.
At the twelfth mile-stone, Agricola is bold, and Severus perfect.
At the thirteenth, High-wall house.
And at the fourteenth stone, we pass by Sir Edward Blacket’s, who is the proprietor of all the works of the General and the two Emperors; and who has converted a little farm-house into a little castle; so that our favourite banks and ditches have not lost their warlike appearance.
Hadrian, fifty yards on my left, is very conspicuous; I, upon Severus’s Wall, and his ditch on my right.
At the fifteenth mile-stone, we pass Halton Shields, a village of twelve houses. I rapped at some doors, tried the latch at others, and hollowed at all; but I believe not a soul was left within, the fine hay-day had emptied the village.
I now enter a common, where the two partners appear in bold and broken lines.
Severus, through the long line of the Wall, seems to chuse the high ground, perhaps the better to observe the approach of an enemy; and Agricola the low, for the benefit of water to supply his ditches; but I was surprised, at the close of the Station, to observe this rule was reversed; for Agricola passes over a steep on my left, and the other seems obliged to take the low ground on which I tread. Perhaps Agricola durst not attempt the swamp; which Severus was obliged to do, as the other had left him no alternative.
Links:
Statue of Hercules found at Rudchester
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