The search for the Armenian color – Vordan Karmir

The color that once mesmerized the old world, extracted from an insect known to Europeans as Kermes and Kirmiz to the Arabs, has its roots in the Armenian Ararat valley. It is the ancient symbol of power and admiration, essence of beauty and goodness.

The lowly scale bug, lies at the center of the creation of one of the most rare and special pigments known to man. The secret of the preparation of the truly permanent dye, one which defies the destructive forces of light, temperature, humidity and time, was kept by our Armenian ancestors for over 2,000 years, passing it down from generation to generation.

Tragically, the secret was lost only 100 years ago as artificial dyes gained broader acceptance among consumers. Seven colors, ranging from dark-blue through blackberry to Jaffa-orange have been extracted but one yet remains illusive. The missing tone is the same shade of truest crimson that made “Araratean cochineal” famous throughout the world.

The dye has been prepared in the Ararat Valley since the most ancient times. The Bible mentions that Noah’s descendants wore garments colored with a red dye made from the scale bug. Records of Sargon II that dated to 714 BC make note of the precious crimson fabrics had been taken from the country around Ararat as trophies of war.

The dye extracted from the adult insects was used by the kings and high priests alike to seal their most important documents. Ancient physicians also took advantage its medicinal qualities: soothing temperatures, antiseptic for wounds, and for contraception.

The textiles made with Armenian crimson were highly valued in Greece and Rome alike. The beauty queens of the time had many cosmetic uses for the bug. Additional recognition came during the Arab invasion in the period of 7th to 9th centuries AD, when the Europeans declared it the “Wonder of the Orient” for its unique ability to delight the eye.

Some of the more specific descriptions of the dye and the bug are to be found in the notes of Arab travelers and explorers. A renowned writer and geographer, Abu-Isaak Al-Istarkhi, mentioned in his book the Roadmap of Kingdoms (930 AD):

“In the city of Dabil (Dvin) woolen dresses, carpets, pillows, saddles, ropes and many other articles of Armenian industry are made. Also, the red dye kirmiz is manufactured here, and it is used to dye fabrics. I discovered that kirmiz is extracted from the larvae that knit around themselves just as silkworms do.”

The search for the Armenian color – Vordan Karmir